By Clifford Roberts
The Breedekloof calls itself the Valley of Generosity and for good reason. It’s home to spirit-replenishing experiences for every season and taste, and a reputation for expressive Chenin blancs wines that just keep on giving.
Situated one hour’s drive from Cape Town, this renowned wine region is home to some 22 producers that extend their chief activity to a range of activities from mountain biking (MTB) to birdwatching, pairing menus for kids to architecture tours.
At the heart of it all is the Chenin blanc grape – celebrated every year in the month of June. The variety has long been South Africa’s most widely planted with the largest concentration located in the Breedekloof. This highlights not only how well the grape does in the region, but also the multi-generational knowledge producers have accumulated.
The reason to visit is the multiples of expressions made here, which show the diversity of growing conditions, but also the use of old vines, barrel fermentation, in styles such as blends, Cap Classique, natural sweets and dessert. But it’s also about the landscape, which begins for most people, having just passed Paarl, through the tunnel on the N1 or via the Bain’s Kloof Pass.
Before venturing out, however, be sure to call ahead to check availability. Some wineries adjust their hours of business according to the time of year. For more general information about the valley, visit www.breedekloof.com.
1. Build your thirst on the trails at Du Toitskloof Wines
At first glance, the home of Du Toitskloof Wines among the valley floor vineyards looks less the part for awesome MTB than perhaps some of its mountainside counterparts. You’d be mistaken though, because its vineyards and property has featured in several headline events including the Cape Epic. Tackling the trails and tasting equally epic Chenin blanc, perhaps post-ride at the on-site Ou Meul restaurant, is among the top reasons to visit. Du Toitskloof Wines is the producer of its eponymous brand as well as Land’s End, Quest and Pierre DuMont. It launched its MTB trail in 2018 followed by a trail running route a few months later. Distances vary between 14.5km and 22km. Info: info@dtkwines.com or 023 349 1601.
2. A slice of heaven lingers in this single vineyard at Opstal
When the only thing more challenging than having enough time to relax is your pursuit for interesting Chenin blanc, head for the award-winning Opstal. This seventh-generation, family-run estate has a portfolio of several expressions topped with its single vineyard Carl Everson Chenin Blanc. Taking the tasting in the bistro, with views of the vineyards and spectacular mountain amphitheatre that directly influences the Slanghoek climate, makes time stand still. Every wine has its own story, a feature that also makes Opstal stand out. For those in the know, Opstal is connected to the wines of Zimbabwean sommelier Tinashe Nyamudoka – a relationship forged through his friendship with winemaker Attie Louw. For a novel and fun way to experience the farm, take the Trekkertrein (tractor train) which includes a picnic in the farm’s peach orchard. Info: 023 344 3001 or info@opstal.co.za
3. Chenin tops the orders at the lakeside-located Marais Family Wines
We’ve mentioned Marais Family Wines’ new tasting room in Slanghoek before, but it bears repeating in the context of its at Breëland Chenin Blanc. The wine has been an anchor variety among its wide variety, and particularly when it comes to the Marais’ own brand wines. Made by Wicus Erasmus, who has been here since 2008, the Chenin blanc is among the property’s most popular to sip while taking in the lakeside views of this expansive, 1 500ha farm. The restaurant has a seasonal menu for breakfast and lunch. Both tasting room and restaurant are open Wednesday to Sunday. Info: 023 344 3129 or tasting@maraiswines.co.za.
4. Have wine, make pasta – the heart of Picardi Place
One of the Breedekloof’s real gems is this workshop and wine experience. Jaco Brand calls the pasta-making experience on his mountain-and-vineyard surrounded property, the “Wanna-be-Italiano”. It started simply, in 2011, and has now expanded to include accommodation too. Each afternoon, Jaco first takes guests on a tour to his biodynamic garden to collect ingredients, then shows how it’s done before the meal is served, most commonly with a wine tasting by one of the region’s producers. Given the Breedekloof’s reputation, Chenin blanc is often part of the experience. The experience is for groups between eight and 30 people. If you’re less than this, call to find out where you might join. Info: 082 788 9019 or info@picardieplace.co.za.
5. Head for the hills then taste great Chenin blanc at Bergsig
It’s hard to decide what’s better at Bergsig – the fascinating expressions of Chenin blanc or the outdoor experiences. Fortunately, you don’t have to choose. A healthy wilderness and great wines share a link, and few places show this better than Bergsig. Several birdwatching events are held here throughout the year, and these have yielded sightings from its bird hides of over 150 species. The magnificent fynbos mountain-scapes at the foot of the Bainskloof Pass also lend themselves to exploration – the reason the farm also has an MTB trail. The start and end point of all endeavours is the Bergsig Bistro and Deli. Its famous wines include the Patmos Chenin Blanc Reserve, named after the ship that brought one of the farm owners’ 18th century ancestors to the Cape. Info: 023 355 1603 or info@bergsig.co.za.
6. Fine wine that’s off the beaten track
Jason’s Hill is a gateway farm to the magical Slanghoek Valley, and another true hidden gem of the Breedekloof. Its cellarmaster, Ivy du Toit, matriarch of the Du Toit Family that owns the winery, is a Winemaker of the Year, which says plenty about her wines and especially the Beatrix Reserve Chenin Blanc. The wine is the property’s flagship expression, named after the landowner who oversaw the first planting of Chenin blanc here, along with the Arrois Cap Classique from 100% Chenin Blanc. Start your visit by doing its hiking trail and ending it at the tasting room with a glass and a cheese platter. Info: 023 344 3146 or info@jasonshill.co.za.
7. Spectacular gardens and architecture paired with sunshine in a glass
The famous, wave-shaped chapel at Bosjes has become iconography for the region. This architecture, along with other prominent features such as the gardens, isn’t only available to functions. Take a tour of the facilities followed by lunch either as a picnic or at The Kitchen, where Bosjes wines, made with a selection of the Breedekloof’s finest fruit, are on offer. The farm is also a great base from which to explore the region, so look at its luxury accommodation and spa too. Info: 023 004 0496 or hello@bosjes.co.za.
8. Birds, bees and Chenin blanc at Merwida
The towering redwood trees at the entrance to the visitor centre may offer a clue to the impressive association Merwida has with its environment. This echoes especially in the beautiful, botanical labels of its Papenkuils Range named after rare species of the farm’s wetlands. Nurturing the land alongside wine has been the effort of seven generations of Van der Merwes. Developments over time, have kept an eye on conservation-minded sustainability. In addition to the WWF recognition, the area is also regarded by the United Nations’ organisation UNESCO as a priority area with high conservation status. Merwida’s Family Vintners Chenin Blanc is part of the Breedekloof Makers collaboration that champions the region’s prowess with this variety. Make time to stop at this tasting room for full immersion into the wine and the philosophy that created it. Info: 023 349 1144 or info@merwida.com.
9. Chenin blanc with a view
There’s nothing that puts a pause in a busy schedule like a hot-tub soak and a glass of wine. Now add a cottage, perched on a mountainside and you’ve got the Pearview luxury eco lodges at Slanghoek Mountain Resort. These are the newest addition to the property’s accommodation formats. Although the resort doesn’t make wine itself, the presence of Slanghoek Cellar a minute up the road makes it a great add-on for any visit. In addition to crafting fine Chenin blanc, the winery also has a blend-your-own experience, allowing you to make and take your own bottle of wine home. Info: 023 344 3138 or info@slanghoekresort.co.za.
10. A pairing for the kiddies
Botha Kelder last year received the trophy for Best Red Wine at the Young Wine Show, but it’s Chenin is no slouch, having claimed gold at Veritas, another of South Africa’s top wine shows. Its café is popular for families, where the kiddies can enjoy a special (non-alcoholic) pairing while parents can sit back and chill on Chenin blanc and fantastic views. Info: 023 355 1740 or admin@bothakelder.co.za.
11. Great lawn and even greater wine
When it comes to families with young children, we know that one of the few things that beats that famous steakhouse franchise as a destination with light bites and a big lawn. Badsberg has you covered for this and more. Its award-winning Chenin blancs include a national champion blend of Chenin blanc and Chardonnay, and a barrel-fermented version – best enjoyed with a cheese platter served on its expansive wooden deck. Info: 023 344 3021 or info@badsberg.co.za.
12. Going deeper into Chenin blanc
The Breedekloof is a treasure trove for wine lovers. For the cognoscenti, there’s even more reason to visit. Design your tour to include some or all 13 members of the Breedekloof Makers. To be part of this association, a winery must produce one premium Chenin blanc. These are typically made from single vineyards or old vines; may be barrel fermented; or have included amphorae or cement eggs in their vinification. Info: www.breedekloofmakers.com.
13. A spirited approach to Chenin blanc
It would have been a great conclusion to this story if the brandy from Belle Rebelle was made with Chenin blanc rather than Colombar, but winemaker Mariëtte Stofberg Coetzee says the grape enjoys greater demand as wine. This says something about the quality of the wines and makes a stop at the family’s farmstall, in the building of the former Ou Stokery off the N1 near Rawsonville, a must. No tastings are offered here, but can be done by appointment with Mariëtte herself. Either way, the farmstall is a good place to go for some last-minute produce shopping before the journey home. Info: 082 867 6958 or mariette@bellerebelle.co.za.
