By Ingerése Keuzenkamp
Chef’s choice – Carla Jankelowitz
Fresh face out of school and with the guidance of her parents, Carla Jankelowitz thought she’d excel in marketing one day. She followed their advice and after matriculating in 2007 she enrolled at Vega and earned her BA degree in copywriting in 2008. But she quickly realised that marketing wasn’t her true calling.
MasterChef Australia was a big hit in their home and had everyone glued to the TV when it aired. Carla’s interest in food prompted her to combine her marketing qualification and culinary interests. This led to an internship at Wine magazine as a food copywriter.
But writing about food wasn’t enough – she wanted to create it. In 2011, she enrolled at Prue Leith Chefs Academy where she qualified as a patisserie chef and opened Carmelas, a charming tea garden in Johannesburg. She sold her stake in the business after two years and moved to London.
She instantly fell in love with London and enrolled for an intermediate patisserie course at Le Cordon Bleu London. She went on to hone her skills at prestigious hotels and clubs such as Ham Yard Hotel (part of the Firmdale Group), The South Kensington Club, The Walbrook Club and the Royal Opera House.
In 2021, she returned to South Africa to help her dad, Nathan, realise their dream of building a wine farm producing premium quality wines and food at Baccō Estate, where she now specialises in Italian-inspired cicchetti or small plates.
Why is it important to have wine knowledge?
Understanding how flavours can elevate one another is crucial when working on a wine farm. I’ve been so fortunate to taste top quality wines with my father and learn a huge amount from both him and our wine maker, Julia Blaine. My role is not only to make delicious food but to highlight the wines we serve and showcase them at their finest.
How has learning about wine impacted your dishes?
At Baccō, we change our menu every month, which is a significant challenge and stimulates my creativity. My knowledge of wine has been invaluable in creating exceptional food and wine pairings. We focus on the flavours which are showcased in each varietal which allows for diverse and innovative ways to enhance food pairings. We follow the philosophy of a traditional heart with a modern hand in everything we do at Baccō. This ensures that each pairing is carefully curated to elevate the dining experience.
What wine and food pairing do you suggest WineLand readers try in October?
I recommend pairing our baked Brie cheesecake with Baccō’s award winning Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec 2020 blend.
Why is this a perfect pairing?
The complexity of Bacco’s Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec 2020, with cherry notes and aromatic spices, complements the richness of the baked Brie cheesecake. To enhance this pairing, we smoke a whole wheel of Brie with old wood chips from the barrels before combining it with our other ingredients, we bake this at a high temperature for a short period of time resulting in a decadently creamy texture. This dish, served with Amarena cherries and a salted brioche crumb, combines savoury, sweet and smoky flavours. The intricacy of the cheesecake perfectly complements and elevates the complexities of the Baccō blend, resulting in a harmonious and sophisticated tasting experience.
How do a chef and a winemaker work together?
Julia and I have complete confidence in each other’s palates, which is the foundation of our collaboration. We have a strong bond and enjoy experimenting with various vintages to see how our respective skills can enhance them. As a young farm, it’s remarkable to see how our wines evolve and how I can pair them with my dishes.
What impact have you had on the wine industry?
Food and wine are like lovers – they bring out the best in each other. My job as a winery chef is to create a pairing that highlights similarities and celebrates differences in the best possible light. We have also been fortunate to be part of the Franshoek Winetram experience, and so we welcome guests from all over the world. As tourism increases in the Western Cape it’s a privilege to showcase the exceptional experience, we offer in hopes guest will fall in love with our little piece of heaven on earth.
How do you see the future of the wine industry in South Africa?
I think we are so blessed in South Africa. My time in London highlighted the special features that we have here in the Western Cape. We create world-class wines and culinary offerings that stand out globally. Everything we offer is of exceptional quality and diversity, and priced so most can enjoy and appreciate them. Looking ahead, I believe the industry will continue to thrive and gain more recognition for its excellence.
What’s the secret behind being a great chef?
The most difficult aspect of being a great chef is effectively teaching others your abilities and vision. Mastering this skill – teaching a team how to showcase your imagination on a plate – can be extremely rewarding. At Baccō, we’re fortunate to have a stellar team who constantly exchange ideas and learn from one another. As a female chef, I encourage aspiring chefs to have self-confidence and see mistakes as opportunities for growth and development.
